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Henry Jacques: High-end Fragrances with Natural Ingredients

In a laboratory surrounded by fields of roses, perfumer Antonin Khalifé unwraps a piece of ambergris.

Por: Rubén Carrillo
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

This substance, formed in the bile ducts of sperm whales, has been used in fragrances for over a millennium and is prized for the musky and woody aroma it develops when dried.

 

Whale hunting has been illegal since 1986, when these species were endangered due to overfishing.

 

Currently, most perfumers use a cheap synthetic version to try to capture its unique scent, but for Khalifé, only the authentic ingredient suffices.

 

Therefore, fishermen from the Maldives and other places search for pieces of the ingredient that have washed ashore, the only way to obtain it. When they find it, their first contact is usually Henry Jacques, the French fragrance house founded by Khalifé’s grandfather in the late 1970s.

 

“When they deliver it to us, they do it as if it were gold, in an armored car,” he says.

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

With that, he unfolds the two-pound piece of crystallized bile and hands it over, perhaps a bit casually for something that costs over $100,000.

 

However, it is just one of the more than 1,200 natural ingredients in the arsenal of this maison, all of them sourced with the care that a Michelin-starred chef would apply to find the right vegetables or a watchmaker would use to select components for a new movement.

 

The laboratory, located among the vineyards of La Motte, France, near where LVMH produces millions of gallons of the exported Provençal rosé, Whispering Angel, is filled with rare extracts and absolutes from around the world.

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

None is more important to the brand than its roses, which is why its CEO, Anne-Lise Cremona, moved their operations here five years ago.

 

On the lands she purchased, she is cultivating hectares of Rosa centifolia, or May rose (a crop for which this region is known), and turning them into Henry Jacques’ own rose absolute.

 

The first batch of the hyper-concentrated fragrance oil, made with flowers grown in 2023, was used to create three new fragrances that are available now and will not be reissued once sold out.

 

“We always had the dream of having our own roses, because, you know, we use quite a lot,” says Cremona with a smile, adding that the flower has several important roles in perfumery.

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

“Una de sus potencias es realzar una fragancia con una delicadeza asombrosa. Además, otra cosa que no mencionamos es que a menudo es muy terapéutica”.

 

El Trio de Rosas de Henry Jacques para 2023 evoca una variedad de emociones. Rose Soleil es compleja y especiada, con notas de pachulí y sándalo. 

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

“One of its strengths is to enhance a fragrance with astonishing delicacy. Moreover, another thing we don’t often mention is that it is often very therapeutic.”

 

Henry Jacques’ Trio de Rosas for 2023 evokes a variety of emotions. Rose Soleil is complex and spicy, with notes of patchouli and sandalwood.

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

The Duo Behind Henry Jacques’ Unique Fragrances

Despite its successes, the brand almost didn’t make it this far. Cremona’s father, Henry Cremona, started the business in 1975. Until the early 2000s, he and his wife, Yvette, operated it exclusively as a bespoke fragrance house, producing custom scents for royalty and wealthy perfume enthusiasts.

 

When her parents wanted to retire in 2010, Cremona returned to Paris from London, where she had been working in the fragrance industry.

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

She didn’t want to see her family’s legacy disappear, so her challenge was to come up with a plan to bring it into the future.

 

Initially, Cremona thought that ready-to-spray fragrances would make up about 50 percent of the business.

 

“But in fact, we have focused so much that the boutique business grew a lot, up to 90 percent,” last year, she says. The brand also offers a solid perfume option in an elegant container called Clic Clac, which you can order in smooth titanium or customize with gem inlays, laser engraving, and the like.

 

They are cleverly designed and priced accordingly: a solid rose gold option can cost over $140,00

Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques
Henry Jacques: high-end fragrances with natural ingredients / Photo via Henry Jacques

We hope you enjoyed this article about Henry Jacques, If you did, please share it with others. You might also be interested in reading our article about Bristish GP, or browsing other reviews in our Luster English section.

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