Art

Sotheby’s London 2025: Fine Jewelry Week Sets the Gem Bar High

From 20 May to 3 June 2025, Sotheby’s lights up New Bond Street with vintage Cartier, Bulgari icons and a rare 3.23 ct fancy brown‑pink diamond—every bid fuels London’s spring sparkle season.

Por: Angela Leon Cervera May 28, 2025

Sotheby’s Fine Jewelry — Sapphire, Purple Sapphire and Diamond Ring. Sotheby's

After Geneva’s headline‑grabbing Magnificent Jewels each November, connoisseurs flock to New Bond Street for Sotheby’s annual spring deep‑dive into historic and contemporary high jewelry.

The 2025 edition keeps the formula tight: a two‑week online bidding window (20 May–3 June) book‑ended by four days of in‑person viewings and a final evening sale that doubles as London’s most glittering charity dinner.

Calendar at a Glance

20 May, 11 AM BST – Digital catalogue goes live; global online bidding opens.
28–30 May & 2 June, 9 AM–4:30 PM – Free public exhibition in Sotheby’s galleries (34–35 New Bond Street).
3 June, 6:30 PM – Live auction conducted by Phyllis Kao, Vice President of Sotheby’s New York; black‑tie dinner follows in the St George Street saleroom.

The Gem to Watch

Fancy brown‑pink diamond ring, 3.23 ct
Octagonal modified step‑cut; VVS1 clarity; GIA‑certified fancy brown‑pink.
Why it matters: natural pinks above three carats are auction unicorns, especially at VVS1. Sotheby’s specialists whisper an estimate capping at £200 000—a relative entry point compared to Geneva’s multi‑million pinks.

Brand Heat Index (No Catalogue Spoilers)

Sotheby’s confirms pieces from the maisons collectors chase most:

Cartier – Art Deco brooches and contemporary Clash rings underline the house’s century‑long design swing.
Bulgari – Vintage Serpenti bangles alongside ’90s tubogas chains fit the current Italian‑retro revival.
Van Cleef & Arpels – Mystery‑set ruby and sapphire works arrive just as the house’s Saatchi Gallery show tours Asia.
Boucheron – Graphic Quatre stacks pair with 1940s nature‑inspired brooches, illustrating Parisian daring across eras.

Exhibition Perks for First‑Time Buyers

Gem Bar 101: gemologists on the gallery floor walk visitors through the four Cs and today’s coloured‑stone metrics.
Jewelry Box Surgery: complimentary clasp and setting checks for any heirloom you bring along (appointment required).
Youth Hour: on 30 May at 3 PM, Sotheby’s NextGen team hosts an under‑35 walk‑through demystifying auction etiquette.

Why London Loves Spring Jewels

Sterling strength against the dollar keeps hammer prices competitive for US collectors.
UK import‑duty structure rewards EU dealers restocking post‑Brexit.
May/June aligns with the capital’s wider luxury calendar—Chelsea Flower Show, Concours on Savile Row, and London Fashion Week Men’s—ensuring crossover audiences.

Logistics Snapshot

Bid Anywhere: sothebys.com, phone, in‑room paddles.
Payment & Release: invoices issued by the MCA, not Sotheby’s; collectors collect or arrange shipment from the museum’s Chicago storage partner (regulations identical to past MCA benefit sales).
Certs & Condition: every lot ships with full lab paperwork (GIA, SSEF, Gübelin or HRD) and Sotheby’s condition report.

Market Pulse

While Geneva commands the trophy tier, London’s Fine Jewelry sale has cultivated a reputation for unicorn mid‑market stones and maison rarities under £500 000. In 2024 the top ten lots averaged £150 000, a bracket that proved resilient despite macro headwinds. Expect 2025 to echo that sweet spot, with coloured diamonds and signed 1960s‑’80s design pieces leading demand.

Whether you’re chasing a pink diamond under the £250 000 radar or scouting vintage maison signatures, Sotheby’s Fine Jewelry London 2025 promises a curated flash of brilliance on New Bond Street.

With transparent lab certs, globetrotting bidders, and a calendar sweet‑spot, it’s the capital’s ultimate spring sparkle fix—minus the guesswork of buyer’s‑premium math and catalogue spoilers. Shine on.

Sotheby’s Fine Jewelry London 2025

Are buyer’s premium rates public?Sotheby’s publishes the sliding scale in its Conditions of Business. Check the online sale page before bidding; rates may differ from other categories.
Can I preview pieces outside the listed hours?Private appointments are available 25–27 May for VIP clients.
Is there a charity component?A portion of proceeds from the live auction dinner tickets supports the Victoria & Albert Museum’s jewelry archive digitisation project.
Dress code for the 3 June sale?Black‑tie optional—but dazzling wrist candy encouraged.
Will results post in real time? Yes. Live hammer updates stream on Sotheby’s website and via its iOS/Android apps.