Art

Rio’s Under-the-Radar Art Circuit: From Fábrica Bhering to Museu do Açude

Skip the clichés: discover Rio de Janeiro’s hidden museums, factory lofts, and jungle pavilions where contemporary art meets colonial lore.

Por: Angela Leon Cervera
Rio de Janeiro
Eduardo Kobra’s monumental ‘Etnias’ mural. Photo: Buzancar

Yes, Christ the Redeemer still rules the postcards—but Carioca culture thrives far from selfie battlegrounds. In leafy hillsides, century-old factories, and rainforest gardens, a quieter Rio reveals itself: experimental residency spaces, sculpture trails, and modernist homes turned micro-museums.

 

We mapped a day-and-a-half itinerary (all places verified, open to the public, and accessible by taxi or VLT) that shows the city’s creative pulse beyond the Sambadrome.

Fábrica Bhering—Chocolate to Conceptual Art

Where Rua Orestes 28, Santo Cristo


Why go This 1930s chocolate plant closed in the ’90s; today its raw brick floors host 70+ artist studios, printmakers, and the shoebox gallery A Mesa.

 

The first Saturday of every month, “Circuito Bhering” turns six floors into an open-studio festival (free, 1–7 p.m.). Pick up bean-to-bar tablets from Barkus Confeitaria on the ground floor—a wink to the building’s sweet past.

MAR’s Rooftop—Graffiti With Bay Views

Where: Praça Mauá 5, Centro


Why go: While the Museu de Arte do Rio (MAR) is already a well-known attraction, many visitors miss the chance to visit its rooftop terrace—a hidden gem with sweeping views of the revived Porto Maravilha and the bay.

 

With your ticket in hand (R$20; free on Tuesdays), take the panoramic elevator up to enjoy the scenery. From here, you can admire the urban landscape and even spot Eduardo Kobra’s monumental ‘Etnias’ mural in the distance along Avenida Rodrigues Alves—though the iconic artwork itself is not painted on the museum’s terrace, its vibrant presence is unmistakable nearby.

Instituto Moreira Salles—Modernism in the Garden

Where Rua Marquês de São Vicente 476, Gávea


Why go Built in 1951 for banker Walther Moreira Salles, this glass-and-granite residence (architects Olavo Redig de Campos & Roberto Burle Marx) is now Brazil’s foremost photography hub. Current shows: “Claudia Andujar: Yanomami” through 29 Sept 2025.

 

Entrance is free; stay for the koi-fringed reflecting pool.

 

Lunch Detour: Da Roberta, Jockey Club

Chef Roberta Sudbrack’s casual kiosk hides inside the Jockey’s stands (Gate 6, Tribuna B). Order the crab-meat pastel and lime-mint mate; track-side seats face the Corcovado.

Casa Roberto Marinho—Painting Meets Landscape

Where: Rua Cosme Velho 1105, Cosme Velho


Why go: Built in 1939 as the home of Globo media mogul Roberto Marinho, this elegant mansion reopened as a museum in 2018.

 

The collection and temporary exhibitions focus on Brazilian modernism, featuring works by renowned artists such as Di Cavalcanti and Volpi. While Beatriz Milhazes—an acclaimed contemporary artist—may be included in special shows, her work is not part of the core historical collection.

 

The museum is known for its vibrant temporary exhibitions. For upcoming events, check the official website, as future exhibits like “Abstract Brazils, 1950-1970” (potentially scheduled for mid-August 2025) should be confirmed there.


Don’t miss exploring the lush subtropical garden, originally designed by Roberto Burle Marx. While the presence of Hugo França’s sculptural benches, carved from fallen Pequi trees, is not explicitly confirmed, the garden is a highlight for its artistic landscaping and tranquil atmosphere.

Parque Lage & EAV—Surrealist School in a Rainforest

Where: Rua Jardim Botânico 414, Jardim Botânico


Why go: At the base of Corcovado, a grand eclectic mansion—with strong Italianate influences—houses the Escola de Artes Visuais (EAV), Rio’s avant-garde art school, founded in 1975.

 

The school hosts rotating exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year, with free admission from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (check the official website for any schedule changes).

 

Don’t miss the chance to relax at Café du Lage, whose courtyard tables serve up what many consider the city’s most Instagram-worthy cappuccino, perfectly framed by lush rainforest and the mansion’s majestic arches.

Morning-After Gem: Museu do Açude—Tiles, Trails, and Tunga

Where: Estr. do Açude 764, Alto da Boa Vista


Why go: Set within the lush greenery of Tijuca Forest, this former hunting lodge—originally acquired in 1912 by the Castro Maya family—shelters a remarkable blue-and-white azulejo collection and an open-air sculpture route featuring site-specific works by artists such as Iole de Freitas.

 

The gardens are dotted with art installations and historic features, including a former swimming pool. Open Wednesday to Monday; entry is R$6 (free on Thursdays).

Fast Five More (If You Have an Extra Day)

  • Solar do Jambeiro, Niterói – 1872 mansion (stone and azulejos, not wood) turned cultural center for chamber concerts and events; easily reached by a 20-minute ferry ride.
  • A Gentil Carioca, Centro – Gallery founded by artists Ernesto Neto, Laura Lima, and Marcio Botner; rooftop flags flutter with each new exhibition.
  • Hélio Oiticica Municipal Art Center, Praça Tiradentes – Rare chance to experience an immersive Penetrável installation by Oiticica; check the official schedule for Saturday openings and free entry.
  • Oi Futuro Flamengo – Historic telecom exchange transformed into a media-art lab; check for the “File Rio” digital festival in October 2025 (confirm dates on the official website).
  • Real Gabinete Português de Leitura – Neo-Manueline library (1887) with over 350,000 volumes and a stunning stained-glass dome—entry is free, and photography is allowed.

Skip the samba clichés and crowded beaches: Rio’s quieter marvels reward the curious traveler with Bauhaus villas in jungle clearings, chocolate-scented ateliers, and dialects of modernism you won’t find on the postcard rack.

 

Pack curiosity, hire a yellow-and-green taxi, and let the city’s hidden art circuit rewrite your mental map of the Cidade Maravilhosa—one offbeat gem at a time.

Hidden Art Rio

Receive the latest news

Subscribe To Our Magazine

Luster Magazine

Digital Magazine

Ingresa los siguientes datos y comienza a disfrutar de nuestra revista digital.