Design

Schiaparelli’s rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance

Daniel Roseberry’s latest couture collection for Schiaparelli is a testament to the house’s enduring spirit of reinvention

Por: Rubén Carrillo
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

Inspired by founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s ability to constantly evolve, Daniel Roseberry takes flight with a collection that celebrates rebirth and transformation.

 

Evoking the image of a phoenix rising from the ashes, the collection’s central theme draws upon a memorable Schiaparelli ensemble worn in the 1940s, a feathered tribute to ballerina Anna Pavlova.

 

This avian motif takes center stage, with gowns adorned in plumage-like textures and silhouettes that echo the graceful lines of a bird in motion.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

But Roseberry doesn’t simply reference the past; he injects it with a modern sensibility. The mid-century influence, evident in the fashion world’s current zeitgeist, manifests in the collection’s generous 1940s-inspired shoulders and the elegance of bow-embellished gowns reminiscent of the 1950s

 

Even the epigraph, sourced from Ernest Hemingway, adds a touch of mid-century literary flair.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli’s signature surrealist touches are also present, reinterpreted by Roseberry’s playful and eccentric vision. 

 

Gowns embellished with dinosaur-like spikes and sheer crinoline veils that obscure models’ faces create a captivating blend of the unexpected and the beautiful.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

Haute couture gets a modern twist

With celebrities like Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner sporting show-stopping pieces, the collection has already garnered significant attention. 

 

This is couture for the bold and fashion-forward, a testament to Schiaparelli’s enduring legacy and Roseberry’s ability to breathe new life into its history.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry, creative director for the legendary Parisian couture house Schiaparelli, often pushes boundaries with his designs. 

 

While the label rose to prominence in the earlier 20th century, Roseberry isn’t afraid to explore new avenues. 

 

This season, he delves into a captivating concept: a “forgotten couture collection” discovered in the fictional basement of Elsa Schiaparelli’s country home.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

This imaginary discovery serves as the inspiration for a collection that subtly references the 1950s. 

 

Roseberry explains, “I wanted people to feel the collection was referencing a different time… and there was something about the ’50s that felt so fresh and simple. You’ll find homages to those silhouettes.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

The collection promises a fascinating blend of unexpected inspiration and subtle nods to a specific era. 

 

By drawing upon a “lost treasure” narrative, Roseberry ignites the imagination while staying true to Schiaparelli’s legacy of innovation.

Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli's rebirth: A couture soiree of feathers, surrealism, and elegance / Photo via Schiaparelli

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